The best food writing isn't about snooty reactions to snooty cooking, but is like a personal conversation with someone you care about. A.J. Liebling's
Between Meqls: An appetite For Paris, Jim Harrison's
The Raw and the Cooked, and just about anything by Ruth Reichl all come to mind. And then there's
The Great British Crisp Challenge, which is lively and entertaining as all get out.